Dining Month Challenge: Fratelli
Wednesday, June 29th, 2011I was recently at a dinner party when I threw out one of my favorite ice breaker questions “What are your top 5 go-to Portland restaurants?” Often it’s many of the same haunts – Clyde Common, Nostrana, Biwa – but a very trusted palate in the group broke out with “Fratelli.” I was intrigued…
When the Dining Month challenge was on, I staked my claim on this restaurant early on (well, one of my colleagues also tried it out for DM, but I won the honor of reviewing it). I’ll start by summing it up with this phrase, “an island in the Pearl.” For as hip and polished as the Pearl District is, there are very few top notch yet affordable restaurants, so Fratelli offers something rare for the region. Tucked into an old brick building and with limited street frontage, sneaking into the restaurant is a bit like discovering a hidden gem. Wood, drapes and tapestries create a warm and intimate environment, that feels both polished and well lived in at the same time. Service was spot on throughout the evening, and the food at times, both met and exceeded my expectations.
The Dining Month menu was different and fun. Rather than 3 courses, it’s actually 4! Guests can choose 2 antipasti from a menu of 8 for the first course(s). I selected grilled asparagus, shaved fennel, and egg salad with honey-lemon dressing and a cannellini beans, mortadella, and pistachio aillade. The grilled asparagus was still crispy and had a nice grassy olive oil that clearly said “it’s early summer, enjoy!” The cannellini beans were good, but not that memorable. What really stood out was what one of my companions ordered – the market inspired frittata. Wow, I must insist that you order this if you go, it transcends a standard egg dish. Then, for the main course, pan roasted Draper Farms chicken wrapped in prosciutto with polenta. Succulent, smokey and absolutely delicious, this dish was enough for two people but I just couldn’t share, nor could I stop myself. Needless to say, I left without a doggie bag. In fact, I did myself in on the entree, so when my cheesecake dessert arrived I barely toyed with it and abandoned half to the table. It was good, but it’s tough to live in the shadows of an excellent entree.
If you only have a chance to go to one more restaurant this June, make it Fratelli.





















